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Looking
for Zerzura (authentic film clip of one of the 1930s expeditions
to find Zerzura)
For the early Egyptians there was supposedly no water west of the
oasis towns. The world ended out there. The interior was waterless. But
in the emptiness of deserts you are always surrounded by lost history.
Tebu and Senussi tribes had roamed there possessing wells that they guarded
with great secrecy. There were rumours of fertile lands that nestled within
the desert's interior. Arab writers in the thirteenth century spoke of
Zerzura. "The Oasis of Little Birds." The City of Acacias. In
The Book of Hidden Treasures, the Kitab al Kanuz, Zerzura is
depicted as a white city, "white as a dove."
There was a time when mapmakers named the places they travelled through
with the names of lovers rather than their own. Someone seen bathing in
a desert caravan, holding up muslin with one arm in front of her. Some
old Arab poet's woman, whose white-dove shoulders made him describe an
oasis with her name. The skin bucket spreads water over her, whe wraps
herself in the cloth, and the old scribe turns from her to describe Zerzura.
Looking for Zerzura. 1932 and 1933 and 1934. Not seeing each other for
months. Just the Bedouin and us, crisscrossing the Forty Days Road. There
were rivers of desert tribes, the most beautiful humans I've met in my
life. We were German, English, Hungarian, African - all of us insignificant
to them. Gradually we became nationless. I came to hate nations. We are
deformed by nation-states. Madox died because of nations.The desert could
not be claimed or owned - it was a piece of cloth carried by winds, never
held down by stones, and given a hundred shifting names long before Canterbury
ever existed, long before battles and treaties quilted Europe and the
East. Its caravans, those strange rambling feasts and cultures, left nothing
behind, not an ember. All of us, even those with European homes and children
in the distance, wished to remove the clothing of our countries.
It was a place of faith. We disappeared into landscape. Fire and sand.
We left the harbours of oasis. The places water came to and touched...Ain,
Bir, Wadi, Foggara, Khottara, Shaduf. I didn't want my name against
such beautiful names. Erase the family name! Erase nations! I was taught
such things by the desert.
Buy 'The English Patient' at www.amazon.com
or www.amazon.co.uk
Read more about the physical search
for Zerzura in this article by Robert Berg published by Saudi Aramco
World.
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